"Muy Bonito:" Experiencing Ecuador's Effortless Elegance
When I left the country for the first time, it changed my life.
I flew into Ecuador’s capital, Quito, on April 10, 2023, with my mom at my side. She had visited before; 18 years prior, before I came into her life. She was reminiscing about her time spent in Ecuador — the people, the landscape, the food, the experience — and wished to share that same experience with me.
Quito currently has a population of over 2 million people and is the world’s second-highest administrative capital sitting at 9,350 feet. Here, the elevation plays its tricks on you. Quito is approximately 16 miles away from Cuidad Mitad del Mundo (or, Middle of the World City) where the altitude is, extraordinarily, 0 feet exactly. We’ll touch upon this monumental place in a moment, but first, our attention lies on Quito.
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| Art Plaza Hotel, Quito Photo Credit - Audrey Linder |
One of the most prominent visual takeaways of Quito is the persistence of graffiti throughout the city.
Art is quite populous and holds great value to Ecuadorians — hence, it’s difficult to find a white wall. Graffiti is usually viewed as a cultural, social, and political statement. I was absolutely enthralled by the artistic decorations while walking down the street.
My mom and I stayed at a hostel, located in the middle of Quito, for a couple of nights. Here, the locals informed us on common misconceptions regarding American tourists, as well as what we
should be expecting during our stay.
“The city is safe,” said the hostel receptionist. “But I wouldn’t venture out at night.”
Like most cities, especially ones foreign to you, it’s probably best to take this piece of advice.
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| Courtyard in downtown Quito Photo Credit - Audrey Linder |
Exploring Quito during the day, however, was mesmerizing. The city was busy, bustling with the sweet smell of petrol and fruit. We hopped on the trolley — a 25 cents fee — and ventured a couple of blocks before coming upon the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Quito's Historic Center.
Here, European-style buildings stand tall. Folks sell wheelbarrows full of rambutan (spiky red fruit similar to lychee). Rhythmic, festive music plays from most corners. Public parks are lively with diverse crowds: stray dogs, children, police, fellow tourists, older folk, street vendors, and … a man selling toilet plungers.
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| Coffee Zular in Quito Photo Credit - Amber Stroyer |
We stopped in at Coffee Zular located in central Quito. I tried the jamón ahumado — a sandwich containing smoked ham, arugula, burrata cheese, cherry tomatoes, and artisan bread — as well as an americano and a side of plantain chips, all of which cost a little over $5.
In addition to the wonderful food and scenery, there is also a promising amount of historical churches and museums. We visited two in the general area (because much of the city is walkable): The Basilica del Voto Nacional church and the Catedral Metropolitan de Quito, both of which charged $2 for admission.
Traveling about an hour north, we visited the previously mentioned Middle of the World City, resting right on the equator. It’s safe to say that you unquestionably feel lighter here. Gravity has its strange ways.
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| Middle of the World City Photo Credit - Amber Stroyer |
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| View from atop the monument Photo Credit - Audrey Linder |
A large monument sits in the center of a courtyard, consisting of stoned pathways and grassy fields. The monument features large letters on each side indicating the direction; “S,” “N,” etc. A globe sits atop this marker. And, inside this building, is a museum providing information about Ecuador, its people, and its history.
For a fee of $5, you can immerse yourself in Ecuador’s culture via this monument. But the best part is the view. Taking an elevator to the 98-feet-tall balcony is worth the venture in itself whilst overlooking the valley and its neighborhoods.
Moving further, approximately 45 miles west of the Middle of the World City, we visited Mindo, a cloud forest village tucked away in the Andes Mountains. Here, the elevation rests at approximately 4,200 feet above sea level, and you’re surrounded by lush mounds of greenery and life.
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| The view of Mindo Photo Credit - Audrey Linder |
Unlike past adventures, we acquired a tour guide for this rainforest journey who knew the area like the back of his hand. The roads here were incredibly narrow and wound all throughout the lush mountains. Thick layers of clouds rested just above our heads, presenting a humid yet refreshing atmosphere. The air inhaled felt pure.
Halfway to Mindo, resting on the edge of a mountain is Los Armadillos Cafetería, a truly hidden gem. The café, decently sized in itself, provided an excellent balcony overlooking the forest. I sat sipping local coffee with my mom as we watched hummingbirds visit each feeder affixed to the overlook.
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| Los Armadillos Cafetería Photo Credit - Amber Stroyer |
Because we visited on a Wednesday, we had the entire balcony to ourselves. The café also provided a full menu, but we instead obtained our caffeine fix (a latte costing $2.50).
Next, in Mindo, our tour guide led us to a secluded spot for birdwatching. A small pathway through the forest allowed us to admire the beautiful variety of flowers and plants.
And then, after spotting multiple large red squirrels, toucans, and tropical birds, we ventured further to another outlook.
This view, similar to the one at Los Armadillos, was breathtaking. It encompassed the full view of Mindo, from the hanging clouds to the sea of green. I was content at this point, just observing our ravishing planet, but then the tour guide handed us feeders filled with nectar.
And in an instant, we were surrounded by dozens of hummingbirds — Mindo is home to over 40 different species. Hummers with long tails, vibrant colors, and large feathers. Most of them sat on my hand while I held out the feeder, some so small I could barely feel their feet.
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| Feeding hummingbirds Photo Credit - Amber Stroyer |
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| My mom and I feeding hummingbirds Photo Credit - Our tour guide |
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| The Otavalo Market Photo Credit - Audrey Linder |
The Market is held at the Plaza de los Ponchos every single day — 365 days a year, 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. However, the best days to visit are Wednesdays and Saturdays (we arrived on a Saturday morning).
Here, booths spread throughout the entire city’s vicinity (population of 44,150) with pops of color and culture.
It is South America’s largest outdoor market and, to be frank, it is one of the best in the world. The items range from hundreds of fruit and vegetable booths (all grown organically and locally) to homemade dream catchers to llama wool-woven ponchos and blankets.
Tourists typically fret on whether the market contains unauthentic and counterfeit items. And yes, unfortunately, there are some booths that would be considered “tourist traps.” However, doing your research and shopping consciously before visiting will limit your spending on fake memorabilia.
As a matter of fact, as you walk through the market, it gets easier to identify the fakes amongst the genuine. Mom and I met a wonderful elderly woman who hand-makes authentic jewelry from cacao shells, and a local artist who hand-weaves Ecuadorian tapestries.
Prices here range, as well. Because it is a well-known tourist attraction, it’s easy to spend well over $100 here. However, fees are still considerably low compared to the U.S. For example, we bought a large bag of fruit (consisting of rambutan, dragon fruit, soursop, passion fruit, and small oranges) for around $2.
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| The Otavalo Market Photo Credit - Audrey Linder |
In addition to the places previously mentioned, we also visited Lago San Pablo and Cotacachi, as well as an art studio, a chocolate factory, a condor park, and a shaman’s house, where mom and I experienced a traditional Ecuadorian shaman ritual.
In just a little over eight days we were able to experience Ecuador to the fullest. I wish we could have stayed longer. Save the plane tickets, the entire trip cost us (including food, hostels, transportation, souvenirs, etc.) just a little over $300.
This was my first time leaving the country, and I am so glad it was with my mom in Ecuador — she was able to revisit her favorite place and share it with me whilst experiencing new adventures. Misconceptions around a country should never hold you back from traveling and living life to the fullest … especially in a place as wondrous as Ecuador.
At a glance:
- Ecuador -
Where: Quito, Middle of the World City, Mindo, and Otavalo.
What: Immerse yourself in Ecuador’s culture as I focus on the atmosphere, food, nature, and people, away from the typical tourist attractions.
Best way to get there: Via plane, approximately $600 per ticket, flying into the capital, Quito. Once you’re there, the best way to get around is by trolley, bus, or taxi.
Where to eat and stay: See Quito's official website and the Otavalo visitors guide.
Takeaways: Make sure to visit the Otavalo Market, the Middle of the World, and the Basilica del Voto Nacional church.
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